Rapid-Source

Think macaroni and cheese — only ten times better. This sophisticated version combines the nuttiness of Gruyère with the intense flavor of parmesan, juicy poached chicken, and a crisp, cheesy crust. If you\'re short on time, feel free to use cooked rotisserie chickens (see cooks\' note, below). In that case, though, don\'t add salt to the sauce, as the stock made from the rotisserie chickens will already be salty.

Chef Tory McPhail writes: "I was 19 years old and just out of culinary school when I first started at Commander\'s Palace. Despite my training, nothing prepared me for the pressures of working in a fast-paced kitchen, or in a restaurant of such high quality. I think my success came down to sheer effort and a lifelong passion for cooking. Even as a kid I loved playing with cookie and pie dough.

"After a seven-year absence, which I spent working abroad and opening a new Commander\'s Palace restaurant in Las Vegas, I came back to New Orleans last year. Since returning I\'ve enjoyed cooking for my friends. On the weekends we\'ll go fishing, and then I\'ll grill our catch and serve it along with a fresh salad. That meal combines the two best things about living in the South — lots of fishing and great fresh produce."

Improv: Add sweet and crunchy accents by mixing a few chopped toasted pecans and some dried cranberries into the chicken salad. Instead of rolls, use crusty French bread or thick slices of sourdough bread.